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As per its title, it reviews inexpensive restaurants in London. It includes only those places in which a two-course meal with a drink, coffee, and gratuity can be had for less than twenty pounds (some thirty-five American dollars or so). It deals only with restaurants; pubs are not included.
There are (by our count) 378 entries. Each entry (there are four to five per page) includes the address, phone number, hours of operation, credit cards accepted, and a very brief review of the cuisine as well as the quality of the food. A numerical price estimate is also given (we assume it also refers to a two course meal with drink, coffee, and gratuity) and some entries are awarded a one star (very good) or two star (exceptional) rating.
The first two-thirds of the book list the entries in alphabetical order. The remainder of the guide has various indices ordering restaurants by cuisine, location, whether they are open for breakfast, cater to children, are open late, have no-smoking areas, private rooms, or outside tables. This approach we find very cumbersome.
Maps are included at the end. Although restaurant names are printed in bold face the map grids are printed in a light gray. In anything but the brightest light we are unable to read many of the street names. Using the guide therefore often requires an adjunct readable map. We consider this a distinct failing.
Overall we find this, begrudgingly, a useful guide. The size is convenient and it does include a fair number of eateries. It is not the easiest to use however, and its reviews typically provide scant information.
As we have stated, it is one of the very few guides we carry with us. But we cannot recommend it strongly. Three stars is all it deserves.
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I vowed to approach this book optimistically. I thought this imaginary travelogue could appeal; I figured it'd serve as an appetizer for the main course, the meatier and even denser non-fictional account of a second journey down the same river that Claudio Magris serves up as "Danube." Two books on journeys down the river through Central Europe, both emerging post-1989. I started with what seemed the easier one, the fictional journey.
Outside of the account of his native Budapest in the middle of the narrative, related with a heavy debt to Italo Calvino's "Invisible Cities," this novel meanders when it should flow in a linear direction, like the river itself. Vienna barely registers, Romania's blurred, and the comlplicate meta-fictional structures and intricate levels of intertextuality left me with no aftertaste. Nothing to savor. Doldrums. Sargasso-ish sea.
I know it's au courant to borrow Borges' imaginary books to cite, Joyce's nightmare dialogues, the whole 20c of European Lit when it comes to experimenting with Traveller vs. Tourist and truth vs. fiction, but Esterhazy here fails to reward my efforts.
From about pp. 130-190, yes, the Budapest section does satisfy a bit, but despite the book's paltry footnotes, there is much that left me empty and I couldn't have cared less to track down the erudition Esterhazy possesses and I lack. Unlike Magris (who the former author mentions very late in the book--written a few years after Magris' magisterial survey), the Hungarian author appears to not much care about the story, the characters, or the plot. The book's clumsily conveyed (at least in English) and the reader's given no context from which (unlike Joyce or Borges) some meaning can be extracted given diligence and attention.
What the plot builds up to is anyone's guess; he seems to have tired of the whole enterprise after the Budapest section. Only bare fleeting bits of emotion felt by people who have suffered in the mitteleuropean landscapes he rushes past remain to move you as a reader. Rarely have I read such an ambitious book by a purportedly renowned novelist that fails to rise to even a basic level of engaging my attention--and I've read my share of such post-modern efforts, and I'm familiar with the effort often expected from readers before the pay-off accrues. Here, no jackpot.
Maybe again this post-1989 cynicism and detachment is the proper pose to assume, but Esterhazy through this book comes off looking like a fop, and the fictional fashions he dons look secondhand and no more trendy or even retro this time around. Stick to Magris for a far more nourishing assortment of Danubian delights. Esterhazy whips up a souffle that sounds intriguing on the menu, but when delivered looks flimsy and tastes flat. This entree leaves you feeling you've spent too much (time) for too little (value).