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The author is a devoted admirer of Willi Unsoeld and does not question some of those moments in Willi's life which should be questioned or reflected upon. This is the one criticism of what is otherwise a very interesting, compelling book about a flawed individual who made mountaineering history. His amazing ascent up the West Ridge of Everest to the summit and his subsequent traverse and descent on the South face will live on forever in the annals of mountaineering lore.
Willi Unsoeld was a passionate man for whom mountaineering was life itself. He was positively joyous when atop his beloved mountains. It is something which is to be admired. Yet, Willi had a darker side, as well. It is this apparent dichotomy in Willi's life that makes the book such an interesting read.
One of the most tragic episodes in Willi's life involved his beautiful daughter, Nanda Devi, named after the mountain of the same name. She was taken by her father on an ill-fated expedition to that same mountain. It was there that she tragically died and was consigned to the mountain. The cause of her death is not made clear by the book, but what is clear to any discerning reader is that Willi bore some responsibility. He acted as no father or responsible expedition leader would have under the circumstances.
What made Nanda Devi's death more appalling is that Willi would later romanticize her death in innumerable lectures, exploiting what should have remained private. How he could bring himself to do this is beyond belief. It is no wonder that his wife blamed him for their daughter's death and that this tragedy caused a rift in their marriage.
This self-styled guru needed the constant worship of acolytes in order to thrive. As he aged, he sought the adoration of college students, spouting his parboiled life philosphy on the subject of risk taking. It was this self styled, sophomoric philosophy that drove him to take a group of students up Mount Ranier in the dead of winter, when other, more level heads, argued against it. Would that he had listened. He and the student who died in an avalanche with him might today be alive. Alas, it was not to be. Peter Pan finally went to Never-Never Land.
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The material itself rates four stars, at least. The text could use with slightly better organization, some of the details are scattered through the text rather than being collected under a single heading and way too much space is spent on fake NPC sages mysteriously commenting on various sahuagin theories and facts rather than just presenting the material in a more straightforward manner.
The biggest drawback to this product, however, is that it is terribly overpriced for the volume of information it contains. After reading through the first dozen pages or so, one realizes that there is a terrific number of really big illustrations, sidebars full of pseudo-NPC drivel, redundant information and filler like "sahuagin often use poison in combat, but that will be covered in chapter 7". The margins are wide, the type is large and there is a disconcerting amount of just plain blank space, sometimes right in the middle of the page. The format resembles something you might expect from someone assigned to write a 20-page essay, but stuck with only 12 pages of material. The supplement checks in at 96 pages, but any competent editor could reduce the page count by a half, if not more.
The Sea Devils contains very useful gaming material, but nobody should be paying full price for a half-empty book. It is highly recommended, but only if you can get it at a discount.
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Framed by the story of Unsoeld's eventual demise in an avalanche on Mt Rainier, the centerpiece of the book is the detailed narrative of a fateful ascent of Nanda Devi, India's tallest mountain, by a group of elite climbers. Roper carefully dissects the tensions that emerge from Day One of the expediton between the hard-charging, summit-oriented alpha males of the pack and those sympathetic to the transcendental, growth-oriented perspective of Unsoeld. Included among this latter contingent is Devi Unsoeld, who was named after this mythopoetic mountain, and tragically becomes, or merges with, its resident goddess.
Roper's writing is crisp and nuanced, and he is able to bring an immediacy to events he has reconstructed from multiple and often contradictory or sanitized versions of events. Within the first chapters, I felt as though I were in the tent debating whether an ill member of the team, and thus potentially the weakest link (it does not help that this particular climber is also a woman)should make the trek or head back to base camp.
Roper tells not only the outward bound story of a mountain-climbing expedition but also draws us within the psyches of the characters, explicating the motives behind this most enigmatic of human undertakings.
I would urge readers to go out any buy this book before the Spring thaw.
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The designer must have understood that, and tries to save the book by overdesigning Leary's text. A huge font here, totally covering the page, and then just some in the corner... Good try. However, you can't shake the impression that it's cheaply made.
So if you are a huge fan of WSB or Leary or Weissman (you must be, if you are even READING this at all!), you might want to have it. But otherwise, no big deal.
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