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It is reassuring to know that the personality that came across on the Television is so close to the real man. His passing left the culinary world short one shining star. I am sorry I never got a chance to taste his cooking first hand. With this cookbook I am able, at least in a secondhand way, to taste the work of the man.
This is a keeper! Buy one for yourself and give many to all those who love food and cooks!
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I found the one theme, intended or not, that makes this a favourite is that many components of the various recipes are interchangeable. For example, there is a great recipe for a lobster and mango/baby spinach salad. I was shopping for ingredients and found the lobster sub-par, so I managed to substitute his marinated tuna recipe in with great success. Same goes with recipes for various pureed sauces and soups. And particularly useful are discussions on the best of seasonal ingredients (notwithstanding that many may not be available to the average cook due to cost, or geographical limitations)
Overall, a top notch book and highly recommended.
By first inspection, I imagined this was another of those letdowns. Beautiful photos, seasonal recipe organization,and what appeared to be bland style recipes.
But upon trying several, this book delivers Trotter's assessment: purity and elegance. Although tried only Cauliflower and Sorrel Soup, Tomato And Parmesan Gratinee Tarts and Duck Breasts with Endive Tarts, this food is elegant and tastes are clean, distinct and so, so satisfying.
Anxious to explore this hot London cook even more.
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Lawler evidently lives in the real world. He has got inside "Charlie Trotters restaurant" - one of the legends of good service way beyond Chicago. But this is not a "hymn of praise" sort of book, it's open about the problems, challenges and shortcomings as well.
His starting point is that good service is an accumulation of little things done right, and he goes right into what those little things are. Example: Chapter 5 Learning the Ropes shows how role play and feedback are far more effective than a service manual, how shadowing by a senior mentor actually works, how to use complaint and compliment letters in staff meetings. Chapter 6 has some great stuff on treating first time customers well and returning customers differently (because you know their preferences).
A unique feature of this book is the section on getting backroom staff to collaborate seamlessly with front of house people (page 128-141). The 12 point checklist on page 141 is a gem - applicable across the whole service industry.
A minor nitpick is that the quote from Dostoevsky appears twice, but aside from that, the book is excellent. I have never eaten in Trotters restaurant myself, but reading this book, I can practically taste the food and feel the atmosphere. I thoroughly recommend this book
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These recipes are certainly difficult if not impossible for the average home chef, or even the sophisticated amateur gourmet as well. The ingredients are exotic and difficult to obtain (no source help is provided at all) and the techniques and difficulty of steps for each entree are staggering.
Not to despair however, for the interested gourmet. As Trotter himself suggests: "think of the recipes as interpretations found to be particularly pleasing. Look at these pages for inspiration and fresh ideas, then make the dishes your own, either by substitutions we have offered or through the endless possibilities evoked by the foodstuffs themselves." Further, nearly all recipes include suggested substitutes, e.g. for the Asian=Glazed Wild Boar Chop he suggests pork, lamb or chicken.
Especially attractive to this reviewer is the enormous collection of game: from grouse to partidge to quail to antelope, buffalo, venison, et al. Excitement from such as: "Roasted Chestnut Soup with Foie Gras, Cipolline Onions and Ginger," "Grilled Pheasant Breast with Wild Strawberries, Pistachios, and Apricot-Curry Sauce," Smoked Squab Breast with Israeli Couscous-Stuffed Tinker Bell Peppeers,Ennis Hazelnuts, and Savory Chocolate Vinagerette," "Asian Glazed Wild Boar Chop with Kimchi, Burgundy Carrots, and Their Puree."
True to his inspiration of fusion, he combines Western European technique without sauce, and in their place consistently and creatively replaces with Vinaigrette or Emulsion.
Suggest interested also check out Mark Miller's "Red Sage," Trotter's "CT Cooks at Home," and "How To Cook Meat" by Schlesinger.
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The book's only negative is in the photography-- photograms of various food items instead of photos of the recipe items. While the photographic style in Trotter's 4 "core" books might be too lavish for this book, it would be nice to see the chef's presentation of some of these recipes.
There are two things which I loved about the book. First, he motivated me to make my own stocks (beef and chicken). Why make the effort to prepare a sauce and spoil it with the flavorless, fat-laden broth that comes out of a can? He provides recipes for very good stocks. (I personally recommend freezing stock in Glad freezer ware or making ice cubes of stock and putting it in a freezer bag.) Second, he introduced several interesting cooking techniques such poaching fish in oil and low-temperature slow roasting of salmon. These are interesting techniques to be used to preserve the flavor and texture of the food.
The book also helpfully provides 3 to 4 course menus for your next dinner party with helpful wine pairings. With this book in your kitchen, you can't fail to impress your family and friends at your next dinner party.
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Still, some of the dishes are approachable by the home cook and the if you are inventive, many could inspire you to come up with your own creations.
An added bonus (or potentially a distraction depending on you point of view) is that the dishes are grouped by the wines that would be accompany them - a novel approach.
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