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If you like travel writing, this book will especially appeal to you as you follow Rosenblum around the world in his quest for knowledge about, as he describes it in the book's title, this "Noble Fruit." Even if you are not fanatical about olives and olive oil--which I am--it is still a fun, fascinating read.
If I could give this book more stars, I would.
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So the existence of this overlooked gem is a boon to anyone unraveling the Gordian complexities of French national character. Rosenblum takes us through history and around the globe, from Gaul to the mid-Eighties, and from Paris to La France Profonde to her old colonies-turned-proteges to France's furthest island outposts.
With delightfully wry turns of phrase-English and French-he admires and skewers the genuine greatness and the overbearing pomposity of the French. (Of particular current interest are the doings of the then-Foreign Minister: Jacques Chirac.) He interviewed seemingly hundreds of people, relates many amusing and thought-provoking anecdotes, and generalizes aptly and fairly.
Here are a few excerpts:
"A string of crumbling French crusader forts rises from high ground across the Levant. They protect nothing and represent little power, but they are still there, after eight centuries. Like France. In North Africa, the French loom large, balanced precariously at center stage. But in the Middle East, they are nowhere and everywhere, moving within a hall of mirrors that only the architects of Versailles could have fashioned."
"The oldest [colonial] buildings show graceful, almost delicate facades; but gates are high, carved doors are solid as iron, stone walls are massive. They were designed to stay cool under the sun, remind civil servants of home, impress the locals, and withstand the odd volley of paving stones should things turn nasty. Not surprisingly, the cathedral and the university were built to last.
The British, in their outposts, leaned toward wood-frame
buildings and corrugated tin, as if they did not want the overhead to cut into profits. There were, in essence, camping out. Not the French."
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Mort Rosenblum has been to lots of parts of France and, on the way, taken good notes. He also is convinced that his experiences point to the decline of 'the better days' in French cuisine, etc. and that you will care. What he doesn't do, however, is help you care by telling you what brings that decline about, how to regain this Eden, if it's inevitable, what the moral to his tale is, etc.. In short, the cause is a nice platform for him to try out his tedious and bombastic style while he tells you what it's like in France a la Rosenblum.
Cuisine is, of course, not dead in France, though the country continues to change in the face of an evolving Europe and modernity encroaches, as ever it has. Rosenblum tells you that, but without taking the next logical step: urging you to go see it. If you can't go to France to experience directly all that entails for the lover of food (which you should, with an open mind and gastronomical vigor), pick up a humble and compelling tale like M.F.K. Fischer's _Long Ago in France_. If you do, you'll spare yourself the patronizing ramblings of Rosenblum that often strain for creativity and languish until they pass into the bizarre, as in this analogy, "Still, if Roquefort is marbling its way into the United States, the way those blue pockets spread in wheels of cheese, there is still some way to go."
The only way you can like this book is if you don't have an affinity for food writing or France to be offended or if your generous nature overwhelms your critical mind. Mr. Rosenblum needs you to say, "ain't that man clever." If you can't, you'll not gain from his book.
His travels take us on a culinary tour de France, but he seems detached and seems somewhat of a French cooking snob. If you don't know the names of the famous 3 Star Chef's and restaurants he takes his readers to, you feel a bit like an outsider looking in through the window. While there are some interesting side trips, like a visit to a truffle market, and an escargot farm, these are basically stories from a reporter's notebook. He is constantly trying to get the answer to the question about the changing role of food in France. The answer: like everything else, it is changing...and it is remaining the same.
With so many good books about France and cuisine, I would put this one down low on my list. Try - Paris To The Moon by Adam Gopnick; French Impressions: The Adventures of an American Family by John Littell; or Ruth Reichl's Tender on The Bone, or just about anything by M.F.K. Fischer.
His having captured the essence of French food and culture allows you to walk away with the feeling that while big fast food conglomerates have a growing presence, all hope is not lost. The conversations with everyone from Alain Ducasse to the captain of a fishing boat in Molene gives you pretty good idea of how the French feel about the unification of Europe, the laws coming from Brussels and about what lies in their future. He paints a picture of France beyond the tourist trap that is present day Paris and other excellent food beyond foie gras.
The author gives a very balanced view of the French. It is obvious that he is in love with France and all that goes with it but is not blind to it's faults. He often refers to the ego of the French and offers no apologies for many of his other criticisms.
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