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I have yet to encounter a book that provides so much information on the making of bread and using of natural yeast starters. This is not a book for those who expect to do quick breads. For the person who wants to know how to make artisan breads at home this book is for you.
The use of starter yeasts is extensive covering white, rye, and wheat. The only other book that gives you more information about "creating" starters and sourdough is _World Sourdoughs From Antiquity_ .
The design of the book is pretty simple. Description of ingredients in detail; tools used; yeasts, starters and sourdoughs; recipes which are broken down by which type of starter used. The recipes themselves are broken into multi-day sections so that the process is more clear. Example would be the challah which is a 2 day bread. The steps themselves don't take that long but you learn the value of planning.
In essence to get something close to your favorite artisan bread you must spend time and a certain amount of patience. This book is quite honest about that and does not use shortcuts at the expense of the quality.
But what about the bread? It is good. Sometimes not as picture perfect but even the "failures" have been tasty.
A must for the baker's library. A wealth of information and interesting recipes too. Not bad for a book that is 251 pages (not counting sources and index).
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I think a career as a food writer would be amazing so every word of this book held me spellbound. I loved her descriptions of the people and food in Thailand, China, France and more. I've never been to these places so it was exciting to visit them through the author's eyes.
I am also interested in culinary greats such as Wolfgang Puck and Alice Waters, so I WANTED to know about her exploits with them. Few people get to live a life such as Reichl's, I didn't see it as bragging but as sharing. I will probably never get to meet these people, but now I know more about them.
Also, I am a foodie, so I loved that recipes were included. I had a dinner party last night for ten and used two of the book's recipes. I made a batch of chicken curry and a batch of shrimp curry, both from the Channing Way Shrimp Curry recipe. Ruth's proportions and ingredients were right on. I only made double curry because two guests do not eat poultry or red meat. There was TONS left over, even with ten people. Most guests raved about it, though a friend and I found it too spicy. Keep in mind that she says in the book she loves spicy food.
I also made the Big Chocolate Cake. I made the whole recipe, which makes two 9X13 cakes. One actually served all ten guests, though my friends who chose to hang around late and drink wine appreciated the extra cake to nosh on. I personally found the cake a bit bland but the icing is fabulous, best I've ever tasted. My guests thought it was the best cake they'd ever had. Keep in mind, I'm a foodie and very picky about what I eat.
This will remain one of my favorite books and I will try other recipes in it. It is ideal for anyone who dreams of becoming a food writer or well known restaurant reviewer and enjoys seeing how others live their lives. Or for anyone who simply enjoys great food.
It is not for those who are wide eyed Pollyannas with morally perfect lives or for those without a great passion for food. Grow up, move on.
I'd initially shied away from reading this book because sophomore efforts are rarely as good as the originals, because the first few pages, when I scanned them, looked awfully dreary (all those Berkeley folks giving Reichl a very hard and preachy time of it, complaining that her new job as a restaurant reviewer means selling out), and because of some negative reviews on Amazon. Now that I've reread those reviews, I'm surprised--some people seem to have read such a different book than I did.
But I just figured out what the problem must be. Reichl is a devoted foodie and food writer, but she is also an eloquent and moving memoirist. If you've come to her work looking for insight only about food, go elsewhere (I suggest Jeffrey Steingarten's The Man Who Ate Everything, or AJ Liebling's Between Meals). But if your interested in lives--women's lives especially--and how they intertwine with careers and passions (Reichl's passion being for food among other things), get this. Reichl is definitely and consciously writing in the tradition of MFK Fisher, who used food as a prism to write about a thousand other things.
Reichl's chief story line is about her career as a restaurant critic and a reporter on the scene of the great revolution in Californian (and hence American) cuisine. Contrary to one reviewer, I didn't think she's telling this story to show off; her insights about Alice Waters, Wolfgang Puck, Fisher, and others are worthwhile and fascinating. Her subplot is her personal life--divorce and remarriage, the death of her father, the adoption and loss of one child and the birth of another. In the hands of another writer these personal details might be mawkish or dreary; I found them wonderfully engrossing.
Of course there are problems with the book. I agreed with many others that tales of trips to China, Thailand, and Barcelona at times seemed more like magazine articles than a coherent part of a memoir. Unlike others, I didn't like the recipes at the end of each chapter; I found it intrusive to go from an emotionally wrenching description of the end of an affair, for example, into chirpee cookbookese ("count on a pound of asparagus per person. Buy the fattest stalks you can . . . ") The memoir parts of the book could have been slightly more self-reflective; Reichl needn't show regret she doesn't feel for the affairs she had during her marriage, but it would seem natural to acknowledge them as something the merest bit more troublesome than the decision about which main course to choose at La Tour d'Argent. Nevertheless, the book overall was wonderful, warm, lusty, passionate, filling, generous, and evocative. I recommend it highly to anyone with an interest in food, life, or love.
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