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Arabia puts you on the street in Yemen,Bahrain,Qatar,Jordan in the middle of the 1970's oil boom. JR paints great pictures and expands your vocabulary too.
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As a book, Life on the Mississippi lacks a truly coherent story line after the half-way point; it tells the story of Twain's training as a Mississippi steamboat pilot, then, when he returns to the river years later as a successful writer, it drops off into anecdotes as Twain travels down the great river, and can be a deadly bore for some readers.
But, oh, what a picture of Twain it draws! There are great tales of characters he meets along the river, told in his inimitably funny style, wonderful bits of his childhood - like the tale of his insomniac guilt and terror when the match he loans a drunk ends up causing the jail to burn down, killing the drunk - and insightful portraits of the towns and villages along the river.
This is a characteristically American book, about progress and independence as well as the greatest American river, written by this most characteristically American writer. It is a true classic (a thing Twain despised! He said, "Classics are books that everybody praises, but nobody reads."), a book that will remain a delight for the foreseeable future.
Wit and wisdom are expected from Twain and this book does not disappoint. It is equally valuable for it's period descriptions of the larger river cities (New Orleans, St. Louis, St. Paul), as well as the small town people and places ranging the length of America's imposing central watershed.
The advent of railroads signalled the end of the Mississipi's grand age of riverboat traffic, but, never fear, Life on the Mississippi brings it back for the reader as only Samuel Clemens can. Highly recommended.
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So plans Jonathan Raban, when he begins fitting out his small boat, well-stocked with both supplies and literary works, for a trip up the inner passage from Seattle to Juneau. Raban soon gets on his way to Alaska, the last frontier of North America.
The exploration that Raban undertakes on this voyage occurs both in the outer environment and inside himself. He explores, and describes in lush detail, the spectacular and stunning scenery of the coast. To Raban, these outposts of America and British Columbia represent the best of the sublime - a romantic concept which reveres the fantastic and unexplored in nature. Raban docks at many undiscovered ports, and shares these journeys with the reader. In addition to his travel, however, Raban learns a great deal about himself, particularly about his dual roles as son and father, in the course of the journey. Also woven into the text is a good deal of material about earlier inhabitants of the Inner Passage; both Native Americans and early European explorers of the coastline.
This is a beautiful book about the landscape, the sea, and its meaning to one individual. It is beautifully written and will not easily be forgotten.
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The glory in Old Glory is only Raban's. There are times when you might think he's passing Cape Horn in a washtub. (How daring!) Or perhaps journeying into a Lost Land inhabited by a tribe of pathetically humble simpletons. (Oh, what a pain!) You don't have to be a careful reader to see through this unless, of course, you've lived apart from interesting human contact most of your life and never saw a river bigger than an ankle-deep stream ... wait a minute!...that is, unless you've lived in England most of your life, I suppose! So beware. This is a book of nice little stories and adventures, but resist the temptation to want to shoot the messenger this time. The Englishman might not know any better.
His initial impressions were often filled with disappointment. He had approached this trip with a boyhood dream in his head and he was continually set back on his proverbial heels by the reality of these river towns in 1979. More often than not, however, further exploration of the town, conversations with some of its citizens and reflection on his part, caused Raban to revise his evaluation of many of the places that he visited.
Some reviewers may perhaps have forgotten that this book describes this region as it was after years during which the US economy struggled through an oil crisis, bouts of inflation, intervals of high unemployment and the tail end of the history of the "old economy". Should someone have the time and inclination to retrace Raban's steps nearly 25 years later, I would not be surprised if they found these towns and their people had changed quite a bit, probably for the better in social and economic terms. For instance, Raban devoted most of a chapter to the failed election campaign of Memphis's first black candidate for mayor. A quick Google (keywords: Memphis Tennesee government) will show you that the present mayor of Memphis (Willie W. Herenton) is African-American. I'm going to guess that he is not the first black mayor of Memphis.
I loved Raban's modus operandi for getting to the heart of a place. Tie up your boat, go to the nearest bar and strike up a conversation. This would seem to me to be the most reliable means to quickly get an unvarnished opinion about a place. Sure, someone on a bar stool is likely to have a slightly dimmer view of the place where he or she lives than the average citizen, but Raban was rarely, if ever, content with their views. He basically used the tavern-sitters as a 1979-era local flesh-and-blood Google; he found out the basics about a place like who are the local characters, what are the main industries, which are the burning local political issues etc. His fellow barflies were more important as sources of germane questions than as sources of definitive answers.
Raban's perspective on the St. Louis metropolitan area is one that I can vouch for personally, having visited there 10 years after he did. Furthermore Jonathan Franzen's novel The Twenty-seventh City is an elaborate description of the city-county socio-politico-economic tensions during the late 1980s. The continuum between Raban and Franzen's descriptions is pretty easy to imagine. Franzen grew up in the county and would have been a teen-ager when Raban was shacked up with his rich, wigged-out girlfriend out in Clayton.
I took one long journey through the US accompanied by a Danish friend. Upon learning that my traveling companion was a foreigner nearly every American that we encountered relaxed almost visibly and began to wax philosophical about the state of things. The radius of their sphere of interest varied, but everyone had an opinion about something. It was delightful to see that Mr. Raban experienced this same lowering of guard and move toward introspection as soon as he announced that he was an Englishman traveling in the US.
The parochial character and narrow-mindedness of many of the people he encountered matches up well with my own experiences in similar terrain four years after his journey. It is important to note though that Raban was treated to extraordinary amounts of generosity, both material and emotional, by the people that he met, however rhetorically bigoted they might have been. The author is at pains to acknowledge both the generosity and the puzzling disconnect that he sees between their rhetoric and their behavior.
Just one of the wonderful things that Jonathan Raban does in the course of Old Glory is show the reader the essence of American character. Their aggressive rhetoric is their shield against the unknown, but once you are brought in behind that shield, Americans are among the most outrageously generous and genuinely good people that you are likely to find.
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By the time I got to the second half of the story, I was disgusted with their pointless and quixotic drive to try to round the Horn again after they had spent half a year in S. Chile begging, borrowing, and stealing parts and labor to rebuild their nearly-demolished yacht. At this point I could not enjoy any more of Mile's detailed descriptions of their jury rig or navigational efforts.
The Smeetons deluded themselves into believing that they were some sort of noble adventurers, striking out where less daring people feared to tread. The truth was that they were fools; their experience and knowledge provided them with ample reasons why people should not attempt the Horn in a small boat. But they just did it anyway. A lot of their folly was driven by this pride. Miles even admits that they did it BECAUSE they feared doing it. To his credit, at one point he confesses that they were not thinking rationally when they decided to make the second go at it (which ended disastroulsy, same as the first).
Years later the CCA awarded the Smeetons the Bluewater Medal, but it wasn't in recognition of this particular voyage, but rather for their lifelong accomplishment of cruising nearly the entire globe in Tsu Hang. On the voyage detailed in Once is Enough, their culpability in repeatedly putting themselves in such unnecessary risk was anything but seamanlike.
Perserverance and seamanship at its best!
Allows you a third chance at a successful attempt.
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As I live in Bahrain it was interesting to read his observations about being here two decades ago. He paints vivid pictures with words and I found it a very enjoyable read.
This was the first of Raban's books I have read. I look forward to reading the rest of them.
Paul Cleaver Bahrain