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Villas is a outspoken (and perceptive) critic of nouvelle cuisine, fusion and all of the unfortunate food-foolishness of the past couple of decades. He savages some big-time chefs like Wolfgang Puck and is simply dismissive of many more famous names.
The author is also a creature from another time, say the 1930s, and is a terrible(wonderful?) snob. More than anything he reminds me of Lucius Beebe, a mid-century American bon vivant who managed to live a gilded life and then write about it.
The book misses occasionally when Villas gets a little too bitchy, but perhaps these slight lapses are as revealing as the more elegant parts. An interesting and somewhat disturbing revelation is just how many food writers live lonely and seemingly desperate lives. Perhaps only the ones in New York are this way.
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As a bonus you get the story behind many of the recipes and running commentary from Villas' mother on many of the recipes. It is clearly a give-and-take mother and son relationship when he says his mother drives him crazy over this or that ingredient and she implies that his version of the family recipe is a little "uppity". She says Jimmy makes his hush puppies with yellow corn meal, but she prefers white. It is both bitchy and sweet at the same time!
I already have my next meal planned from this wonderful book and can recommend it for the cole slaw and BBQ chicken recipes alone - not to mention the lively stories and commentary. Enjoy.
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Rudy Fierro is there, throughout the whole of the Mexican revolution, and Pancho Villa's fight with the various people in power in Mexico City. The various people involved are tremendously depicted, and there's a parade of minor characters, some historical, some not. Both Ambrose Bierce and George Patton, not to mention John Pershing, make appearances. The author does a marvelous job of portraying men for whom it is nothing to shoot several hundred people, and then go have dinner.
Frankly, I was surprised by how good this book was. I found another one on the same remainder shelf, and after that I'll be hitting the used bookstore.
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The problem with the book is evident on the front cover: A very handsome picture of various cooking entries placed on a white tablecloth. The picture features the food and no attention is paid to the setting. The book has sketchy comments here and there as to types of china and crockery used or maybe what flowers were picked from the garden to dress the table. I expect a book on Entertaining to have a few (hopefully many) lavish pictures of table settings. Schedules are a boon and things that can be cooked ahead are a must. Invitations and how they should be communicated is a big help. For instance, Martha Pearl does not give us a clue how people at the funeral are going to know where the buffet is.
The book is an extension of "Southern Kitchen" with barely a nod to Entertaining. However, the recipes are good, precise and easy to follow. It is written in an entertaining manner.
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Villas sprinkles this well-rounded, all-American comfort-food collection with tips on everything from freezing to condiment brands and baking dish equivalents. Recipe prefaces provide background history and cooking suggestions. Useful for entertaining as well as everyday, this book will see plenty of use in any kitchen.
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The introduction delves into the amazing French Paradox, the question of how the French eat suchheavy food, yet have half the rate of heart problems of Americans.
And the recipes in Mr. Villas' masterpiece are also just as interesting. I found the recipes to be very informative, and most were preceded by a humorous or thought provoking anecdote about the French countryside. Each recipe also informs the reader what part of France the particular recipe is from, such as Provence, Flanders, or Alsace.
The recipes are all delicious, and most are relatively easy to prepare as well, contrary to popular belief that French cooking is extremely difficult.
In addition to all the wonderful recipies, Mr. Villas also includes a chapter about bread, and the salade verte, both of which are very important in France. This book is truly interesting, even for someone who dosen't cook. It is worth reading just for the parts about French culture, as well as for the recipies. Bon Appetit