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Fortunately, while Moxham has to fill us in on such history (and the history of the comparable French tax on salt), he also has the much more pleasant task of telling us about his researches and his travels. We get to learn about his finding period maps, how difficult they were to read, and how he came to use the Global positioning System on his hunt. But the cheeriest parts of the story have to do with his visits with friends and strangers in India. He is able to describe with good humor the frustration of travel by motorized rickshaw, inexplicably efficient or inefficient trains, and pedestrian searches in the heat and dust of the Indian plains. His Indian friends were unflaggingly helpful. The strangers he met were almost always interested in his quest, although intensive farming and road building have wiped out almost all the traces of the hedge, and the community memory of it is almost entirely obliterated, too. They supported him when all seemed lost. This is fine travel writing.
Moxham succeeded in his quest to find some remnant of the hedge, but more importantly, he has made history by rescuing it from obscurity. The hedge was an amazing physical achievement, but perhaps because its purpose was so ignominious people preserved little record of it. Anyone reading this fascinating book, however, will be impressed by the quest for the hedge, and that its history has not been lost.
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My first impression is of a disjointed tale in which the author hops back and forth between travelogue writing, a criticism of British politics, and a detailed description of his library research. Yet no chapter of this book (with one exception of which I will comment later) was strong enough to stand on its own. The travel narratives were often depressing, leading me to ask why the author was so enamored with India if he hated so many aspects of his travels there. The criticisms of British policy, while characteristic of the guilt and self-loathing that I have seen manifest in many Britons when discussing their former empire, would perhaps have been better suited to a political science text. As far as the research is concerned, my eyes glaze over when doing my own, let alone when reading about someone else's methodical work. Finally, when the author describes in meticulous detail his use of a GPS to determine the coordinates for this hedge, in this particular instance the 78E meridian through Agra, he proceeds to mix up longitude with latitude. This is probably just an editing error but the lack of attention to detail does not bode well.
However, on the plus side, I will defend the author against the criticism of not using enough maps. As he clearly points out in the book, there simply aren't detailed maps of India available to one who is not in the Indian government. In India it is illegal to possess maps of the scale that would have offered the necessary detail to the reader. On more than one occasion the author notes his reluctance to even use his GPS because of the paranoia of the Indian officials nearby. Satellite images might have been purchased but at an unreasonable cost and the maps found at the India Office or the British Museum were probably of too large a scale to successfully reduce to an octavo bound book.
I also want to say that one section of this book (to which I alluded earlier) did fascinate me: That of the physiology of salt and the human diet. I had only a rudimentary understanding of why salt is needed, how much is needed, where it is found (or rather, not found) in food, and the consequences of its absence. For that one chapter I thought I was reading an Asimov book for the author was so thorough in discussing this topic and the text flowed so effortlessly. One could clearly see why the customs hedge would have such a profound affect on the lives of 19th century Indians.
But the same can not said of this book overall. When the reader finally does get to the part where the hedge is found (four pages from the end of the book) it is anticlimactic and one is left wondering why the author spent so much time writing a book and not...writing an article for National Geographic.