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Every year in May, there is an Anglican National Pilgrimage to the shrine of the Virgin Mary in Walsingham, an English village. The procession is attended not only by pilgrims, but by protesters. Methodists, Presbyterians, and others who think that the procession is too close to Catholicism shout down the parade and put up signs like "This procession & mass denies the Word of God which forbids it." Lourdes is very Catholic and very kitschy. Mahoney's first physically demanding pilgrimage was to the city of Santiago de Compostela in Spain via walking El Camino de Santiago, hundreds of miles across northern Spain. Mahoney's view of the pilgrims here, as she hobbles with crippling tendonitis, is the most cynical; as befits a "new" ancient route, the pilgrims on it are New-Agey secular seekers, taking the hike during some free months in between jobs, to find a spouse, to heal a karma, or to lose weight. Mahoney's Hindu pilgrimage was to Varanasi, the ancient city on the Ganges where the very best cremations happen and where reverent Hindus go to bathe in the fetid waters. In the Holy Land, she is amused by how different churches insist that they own, say, the authentic place where the water-into-wine miracle. The struggle for authenticity has manifested itself in different religions or different branches of one religion trying to claim possession of particular sacred sites, and Mahoney notes, "Everyone was fighting to own a piece of the man who lived for peace and said, _Own nothing_." The final pilgrimage is to Saint Patrick's Purgatory on Station Island in the middle of Lough Derg, a rigorous pilgrimage including sleep deprivation, cold, midges, and mind-numbing recitations of rigid prayers, perhaps in anticipation of purgatory's entertainments.
Mahoney is a wonderful guide to these strange locales, practices, and people. She examines her own beliefs throughout, and contrasts them with those of her mother, a staunch Catholic. Conversations with her mother are remembered frequently throughout the book. There is serious introspection here, and serious inquiry into a form of human activity that has many participants, but she has conducted the research with irrepressible humor. At the end of the Camino trip, she reflects that although she was still unsure why she had walked all that way, "... I felt I had accomplished something strange and monumental." Yes, and that can be said of her book as well.
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If you like to know more about Lillian Hellman, I'd recommend you to read "Lilly: Reminiscences of Lillian Hellman" written by Peter Feibleman.
At the risk of irritating the obviously sensitive author (a mini-Miss-Lily?) my take on her experience is that she couldn't get mad at her wise and loving mother for being an alcoholic and polio victim who Rosemary felt she had to protect and constantly save from disaster. She was needed as a caretaker and her mother was so obviously debilitated and yet trying so hard to do a good, if exhausting job herself. Also, Rosemary had been abandoned by her father and had obviously been lied to about that by her mother. So how could she rebel against such a saintly, sad, charming, hard-working woman, the only true source of love in her life?
O.K. Along comes Lillian Hellman - the perfect Mommie from Hell for a seventeen-year-old in need of someone or something to hate, hate, hate. They were made for each other. I loved them both in this vivid, hilarious, heartbreaking and compulsively readable story. Thanks to the author for many hours of enjoyment - I read half the book aloud to my husband, also a writer.
PS - Opening descriptions of Vineyard locals, especially the grocery crew, are adorable.