I read Peter Hessler's book within one week, and I wholeheartedly agree with its many admirers. The writing is excellent, the anecdotes priceless (witness his student's Marxist take on Beowulf from the perspective of the monster Grendel!), and his commitment and respect for understanding China genuine. Indeed, this is one of the few books I've read which is not a holier-than-thou rant from a spoiled and generally clueless Westerner, detailing (yet again) skewed takes on China's problems and what not. Like his excellent Atlantic Monthly pieces, River Town is a balanced account of life in China, where people are pretty much just like you and me, albeit poorer (assuming you're a Westerner).

However, despite Hessler's formidable Chinese skills, I can't help but feel he provides only a superficial understanding of Chinese society. He never truly penetrates it like many other writers have done with other non-Western societies. Thus, while Hessler writes about his trip to Xi'an or his friendship with the people who run the local noodle stall, I feel often that I'm just reading a prose version of a tourist's snapshots. Snap, snap, snap--little anecdotes that give me a smile but never made me think. Hessler's relationship with Chinese women is a classic example of his remove from the country: in his entire time there (2 years), he never went out with a single Chinese woman!--and this is despite countless references within his book to their beauty and grace. Indeed, his one "date" is near the end of his 2 years when he and his Peace Corps sitemate took a couple of the local bank's tellers out for dinner to show their appreciation for all their kindness--later, we find out, these two women were married at the time. Likewise, when a local tramp who works in a beauty salon pursues him, he is horrified by the thought of people seeing her with him. But why the fear? Surely, even if he rebuffed her, it would be interesting to see where she lived and how she operated. Instead, Hessler becomes afraid and runs away, destroying a friendship that would provide balance to his often dull episodes about his relationship with a Catholic priest.

So . . . overall, this is a very impressive book, but it's one that's curiously vapid. Maybe I'm comparing Peter Hessler's experiences in China with Paul Theroux's in Africa, and this is not a fair comparison. However, Theroux in his countless stories about Africa seem to have lived and understood the place to an extent Hessler doesn't. In his descriptions about Africa, it seems Theroux as a Peace Corps volunteer had gone native in every sense of the word. Hessler doesn't go as far native as a Peace Corps volunteer, and that remains the only (though not insubstantial) flaw of the book.

The final verdict: Read River Town if you're interested in China. But if you're interested in Peace Corps stories, read Paul Theroux's novel "My Secret History" which is more impressive.

In "River Town: Two Years on the Yangtze" , author Peter Hessler composes a compelling story that takes place in the small city of Fuling, a town settled on the Yangtze River within the Sichuan province of China. As a Peace Corps volunteer, Peter works at the local college teaching English and American literature to Chinese students. In his narrative, Peter relates his experiences of living in a dramatically different society of communist China. As the first American to reside in the city in over fifty years, Peter describes his struggles with his limited grasp of the Chinese language and the people's stereotype of a typical "American". With the story's progression, Hessler depicts his ability to adapt to the Chinese dialect and culture, and the people's gradual acceptance of him and his fellow volunteer, Adam Meier. This acceptance illustrates a general understanding that grows between Peter and those he interacts with. Hessler's illustrations of social and cultural differences allow his readers to become acquainted with many of the customs and traditions found within contemporary China. Hessler addresses issues such as reform within the country, weaving together China's history with its present progression. Through his vivid depictions of the people he encounters and the experiences he undergoes, Hessler provides an insightful illustration of the culture found within China. I found this novel to be a wonderful story that reflects the Chinese society.

On October, I had a one month trip to China that included Sichuan province. The beautiful scenery, the dusty smell, the people and their strange reaction to foreigners - everything came back to me while I was reading Hessler's book. I read it for two days without putting it down. Reading with enlarging interest the stories and thoughts that Hessler had during his stay in Fuling, laughing so much at events that he had in the college were he was teaching and especially understanding (a bit) more about the unique Chinese character. But above all I was admiring and envying Hessler for the great adventure that he had and wrote of, with such a great talent. I recommend this book to every one that was in China and wants to remember and to every body that wants to go to China and like to know more before his journey.